Ankara Fabric: The Story Behind Africa's Most Colourful Textile

Stocked at Tate Modern · V&A · Selfridges (UK) and Smithsonian NMAAHC · MoMA (USA)

Here's something that surprises people when I tell them: Ankara fabric, the bold wax print textile that's become synonymous with African fashion, didn't originate in Africa.

It started in Indonesia. The Dutch took the batik dyeing technique from Indonesia and industrialised it in the Netherlands in the 19th century. They tried to sell it in Indonesia but it didn't take off. So they brought it to West Africa instead.

And West Africa transformed it.

African consumers took this Dutch-manufactured textile and made it their own. They created new patterns. They gave those patterns names and meanings. They wore it at weddings, funerals, celebrations, and everyday occasions. They turned a commercial product into a cultural language.

Today, Ankara fabric is one of the most recognisable textiles in the world. Every pattern has a name. "Queen Elizabeth." "Kiss Me." "Jealousy." The names tell you something about the culture that created them. Bold, playful, unafraid.

Fashion designers from Stella McCartney to Burberry have referenced Ankara patterns in their collections. It's appeared on runways in Paris, Milan, London, and New York. But it started in the markets of West Africa, where women chose patterns that told stories about their lives.

That's what I love about African textile culture. It takes what it's given and makes it something entirely its own. That's not imitation. That's creativity.

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